Hemp Double Ikat Kimono

When weaving an ikat textile, the threads are bound in small groups before being dyed to produce resist-dyed patterns when woven. Because of the porousness of the tied fiber borders there is a fuzzy quality to the woven yarn which is cherished by collectors. The Japanese term for ikat is “kasuri,” and when both the warp and weft are bound in a double ikat like this piece, it is called “tateyokogasuri.” Double ikat is especially impressive as the weft yarns need to be adjusted constantly to form a coherent pattern.

This kimono is woven out of hemp, and because of it’s light and airy quality, it was likely worn in the summer months. It is decorated in a diagonal scheme with different shapes such as crosses (hikisagi), flowers, and waves. It is  dyed with indigo except for the floral disks which are yellow which, no doubt , posed a big challenge for the weaver to execute.