Benares Brocade

Benares became a center for brocade weaving when artisans from Giujarat migrated east and brought the technology with them. Benares brocades are woven by Muslim men who are called artists, not weavers. They were originally made on pit looms. Traditionally the design of a Benares brocade was first worked out on paper and then rendered into cotton threads on a thread device similar to the Jacquard. Nowadays Jacquard device is most commonly used. The brocading, which is supplementary weave, is done with zari thread, which is finely drawn metal based thread that is wound round a silk thread.

This Benares brocade piece is from the 18th Century and it is comprised of smaller fragments that are most likely from a coat. It contains a repeating tree pattern that has alternating gold and silver leaves. The trunks are also gold and silver and inversely alternate with the leaves. Set on a purple backdrop, there are red flowers coming from each tree.