Naqadah Aba

Nakadah is an Egyptian town south of Cairo on the West Bank of the Nile. Textile production there goes back to the second millennium BC. The weaving has always been done by women on traditional looms, but the textiles produced have evolved according to the targeted markets. In the 18th and 19th centuries the town produced modesty garments worn by married women and abas, the sleeveless silk or wool robes worn by upper class men. These garments were exported along the cross Saharan caravan roads to the oases of western Egypt as well as to Libya, Tunisian, Algeria and Morocco.

Demand for abas waned in the mid 20th century as cross Saharan routes were hindered by political unrest and replaced by seafaring trade. Consequently, Nakadah textile production adapted by using the same patterns but on bright, shiny and colorful rayon cloth that appeals to the Sudanese market.

Not as famous for their quality compared to what came out of the Syrian weaving centers of Damascus and Aleppo, some of the work is quite accomplished as is evident is this aba. It is made of silk and metallic thread in slit tapestry technique. The design scheme is generally linear with a stylized Inchallah, or God’s willing, across the top of the backside.